Every time Florida gets a cold snap, we all have the same reaction: questioning our life choices. This is not why we live here. We signed up for palm trees, flip-flops, and complaining about the heat — not dragging plants into the garage and wondering why Florida suddenly forgot its own identity. Yet every winter, even briefly, cold weather reminds us that our landscapes still need protection. A little preparation before a cold snap — and the right response afterward — can make the difference between temporary damage and permanent loss.
Cold weather in Florida may be short-lived, but it can still cause significant damage to landscape plants, especially tropical and subtropical species. At MRT, we often see gardeners unsure whether to protect plants ahead of cold weather or how to respond afterward without causing additional stress. Understanding both prevention and recovery is key to keeping your landscape healthy.
As we’ve spent the last few weeks moving our entire plant inventory at all three MRT locations indoors every single day and covering the remaining trees, we recognize that controlling the weather isn’t ever going to be within our grasp. What we can control is how we prepare for the cold weather, and most importantly, how we respond after the cold weather strikes.
Cold damage occurs when low temperatures disrupt plant cells, either through freezing or chilling injury. Freezing temperatures can cause ice crystals to form inside plant tissue, rupturing cell walls. Chilling injury can occur at temperatures above freezing but below a plant’s tolerance range, leading to leaf discoloration, wilting, and delayed growth. Plants most at risk include tropical ornamentals, citrus, palms, annuals, and container-grown plants, which lack the insulation of in-ground soil.
The best defense against cold damage is preparation. Plant placement plays a major role in how much damage occurs. Cold air settles in low areas, so tender plants should be placed in protected locations near structures, under tree canopies, or in areas shielded from wind. Watering soil ahead of a cold event can help retain ground heat and protect roots overnight. Applying two to three inches of mulch also helps insulate root systems and moderate soil temperatures.
Avoid pruning or fertilizing before cold weather arrives. Pruning encourages tender new growth that is more susceptible to cold injury, and fertilizer can push growth at the wrong time. When temperatures are expected to drop, covering sensitive plants with frost cloth can help trap heat and reduce the effects of the wind. Frost cloth should reach the ground to hold warmth and be removed once temperatures rise. Container plants should be moved indoors or into protected areas such as garages or covered porches whenever possible.
A Simple Cold-Weather Guide for Florida Plants
As a general rule, the more tropical the plant, the earlier you should take action.
At 45–50°F, very sensitive tropicals may begin to experience stress. Orchids, calatheas, anthuriums, crotons, and many houseplants kept outdoors seasonally should be moved indoors or into a protected, heated space.
At 40–45°F, plants such as hibiscus, mandevilla, bougainvillea, cordyline (ti plants), ficus, and ixora should be covered or moved if in containers. Chilling injury can occur even without frost.
At 32–40°F, most tropical plants and citrus benefit from protection. Cover hibiscus, gardenias, young citrus trees, plumeria, and container-grown palms. Plants in pots are especially vulnerable and should be moved whenever possible.
At 32°F and below, frost protection becomes critical. Tender palms, bananas, papaya, newly planted shrubs, and annuals should be covered thoroughly, and container plants should be moved indoors or into garages. Even cold-hardy plants can experience damage if exposure is prolonged.
Cold-hardy plants such as sabal palms, live oaks, camellias, azaleas, and many Florida natives typically tolerate brief cold events once established with little or no protection.
After cold weather passes, patience becomes the most important part of recovery. Cold-damaged plants often look worse in the days following a freeze, and it can take weeks to determine the full extent of damage.
What NOT to Do After a Freeze
After a cold event, it’s natural to want to clean everything up immediately, but some common reactions can cause more harm than good.
Do not prune immediately. Damaged leaves and stems can protect living tissue beneath them from additional cold exposure. Pruning too soon may expose healthy tissue to further damage.
Do not fertilize right away. Fertilizer encourages new growth, which is especially vulnerable if another cold night occurs. Wait until plants are actively growing again in warm weather.
Do not overwater. While plants may need moisture to recover, overly wet soil can stress already-damaged roots. Water only as needed and ensure good drainage.
Do not remove green palm fronds. Green fronds are essential for palm recovery, even if they show some damage. Removing them too early can slow recovery or permanently weaken the palm.
Do not assume a plant is dead too quickly. Many plants, especially tropical species, can take weeks or even months to show signs of recovery.
When It’s Safe to Prune After Cold Damage
Timing matters when pruning cold-damaged plants. Use this general timeline as a guide.
Immediately after a freeze:
Do not prune. Leave damaged foliage in place to protect underlying tissue.
Two to four weeks after cold weather:
Begin inspecting plants, but prune only obviously broken or completely dead material if necessary.
Once new growth appears:
This is the safest time to prune. New growth clearly shows where living tissue begins. Prune back to healthy, green tissue using clean, sharp tools.
Late winter to early spring:
Most cold-damaged plants can be properly shaped and cleaned up once temperatures have stabilized and active growth has resumed.
A simple scratch test can help confirm what is alive. Gently scrape the bark on a stem — green tissue indicates life, while brown or black tissue is dead.
Certain plants require special consideration during recovery. With palms, green fronds should remain in place, even if damaged. Brown fronds can also help protect the growing point. Lawns may turn brown following cold weather, but this is often normal winter dormancy. Severe damage may require reseeding or resodding later in the season.
Not all cold-damaged plants need to be replaced. Many will recover fully with time and proper care. Incorporating cold-hardy plants into your landscape, maintaining healthy soil, and responding thoughtfully to cold events will help create a more resilient garden year after year.
If you’re unsure when to cover, move, fertilize, prune, or simply wait, stop by MRT. We’re always happy to help you protect your plants — even when Florida briefly forgets it’s Florida.